Starter Snaps: The best entry-level cameras in 2024

The best entry-level cameras for you aren't just the ones you can afford, and this is especially true if you’re just stepping into the world of photography for the first time. Choose well and your high-resolution digital camera will become your new creative partner, always ready to capture the scene just how you want it.

But, to begin with, it’s going to seem daunting. Do you go DSLR, or are mirrorless cameras the way forward? Should you stick with a compact camera, or invest in a bridge camera with a superzoom lens? And what do all these terms actually mean?

Best entry-level cameras of 2024 at a glance

• Best overall: Canon EOS 2000D - Buy now on Amazon UK
• Best bridge: Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II - Buy now on Amazon UK
• Best Canon: Canon EOS 4000D - Buy now on Amazon UK

After the cameras, we've put together a guide to help you frame up what's important when choosing. That also includes unpacking some of the technical jargon for you so you can make an informed choice as well. You might be setting your signs on particular subject matter, like landscapes, or portrait photography. Understanding more about lenses and features is essential in making your choice the right one.

Our experts here at What's The Best were all beginners once, so we know what to look for in entry-level digital cameras. Not everyone enters at the same level though, so we've tailored our pick of the best to match. We have options for complete newbies through to those who know a little about photography but want to upgrade from an automatic or smartphone camera. Viewfinder's at the ready, let's snap to it.

Best entry-level cameras in 2024

All prices are correct at the time of writing. Prices, stock and deals are subject to change without notice.

How to choose the best entry-level camera for you

Stick to your budget and buy wisely

If you've already been scouring the internet for affordable cameras for beginners you've probably found dozens of convincing-looking cameras from unknown brands already. When it comes to the best entry-level cameras, price is going to be a huge factor for many. But don't be fooled. Engineering the optics, mechanisms and hardware that make a capable, solid, and reliable camera is a true specialism.

The best brands, like Canon, Nikon, FUJIFILM and others, have been doing this expertly for decades. All of our recommendations come from established brands and, as long as you have a modest budget in mind, you could choose any of them and be well on your way as a photographer.

And on the subject of budget, it's easy to get wooed by the ever-expanding list of technical features, AI enhancements, and monstrous megapixel measurements. But resist the urge to overspend. As a beginner or novice, you're going to need to learn the ropes before you can really capitalise on the powerful kit you've just bought; so our advice is to keep things simple now and upgrade later once you've discovered what kind of photographer you are.

Invest in your kit with accessories

Where photography is concerned there's a dizzying amount of choice when it comes to extras. Not all extra accessories are going to be useful for beginners, though. For instance, you can quickly go out and blow a lot of cash on a wide-aperture prime lens - but there's little point unless you know how to get the best out of it. As a beginner, there are much cheaper and more essential additions you should hunt down first.

If your camera lens supports filter attachments, essentials include a UV filter to protect your lens as well as improve clarity. You might also go for a polariser to prevent nasty reflections. And, of course, a camera cleaning kit so that you can look after your lens and camera body with the right brushes, cloths, and supplies.

Consider your lens options

Possibly the most exciting items you can buy for your photographic arsenal are lenses. If your selection from the best entry-level cameras has an interchangeable lens, first check the type of fitting your camera will support. Many manufacturers, such as Sony, have their own proprietary lens systems and ranges, so you should partly base your choice of camera on the lenses available for it.

Protect your investment

No matter whether you've opted for a compact camera or a full-size DSLR with additional lenses, we can't stress enough how important it is to budget for one of the best camera bags you can afford. Yes, most cameras come with straps and lens covers - but nothing beats keeping your prized kit in a properly cushioned bag or case. If you're planning on doing a lot of outdoor shoots, make sure you have waterproofing or a rain cover for it too. And don't forget extra space for filters, spare batteries and the like.

Jargon Buster

Shutter speed – This is the length of time that the camera's shutter - the part that shields the sensor from the light - remains open. The longer the shutter is open, the slower the shutter speed - it also allows more light to reach the sensor. This speed is measured in seconds and fractions of a second. Therefore, if you want to take a shot of a fast runner, but don't want any motion blur, you'll need a faster shutter speed.

ISO (or 'film speed') – Back in the days of film cameras, the film itself was more or less sensitive to light - expressed as an ISO rating. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive to light. So, a film with an ISO in the high thousands would mean the camera needed less light to capture an image.

And so, a photographer could retain a fast shutter speed even in low light. But this would come at a cost, and it still does. Your camera's sensor is the modern equivalent of a reel of film. The more light sensitivity you asked it to deliver, the higher the grain. So, a normal ISO speed for an average daylight situation would be 400 ISO. That means there should be plenty of light for the sensor to register the scene without badly affecting shutter speeds.

Aperture – A key component of photography along with the two above, aperture is how a lens can let more or less light pass through it before it reaches the sensor. It's a very similar mechanism to the pupil of the human eye. It's essentially a hole that can widen or close down. The effect this has on the shot is profound; it's not just the amount of light, it's how the light is scattered or focussed too.

Measured in f-stops, a low f-stop (like f/3.5) is actually a large aperture. A high f-stop (like f/22) is a very small aperture. A low f-stop will dramatically narrow the depth of field, meaning that anything beyond or in front of your subject is blurred. Conversely, a high f-stop will deepen the depth of field, essentially allowing everything from the mid-range to the horizon (or infinity) to be in focus.

Depth of Field – As mentioned above, this is a way of describing the limits of your focal range. As you'd imagine, a shallow depth of field gives you a more narrow bracket within which everything is in focus; this can be as shallow as a few millimetres at the extreme. A deep depth of field is the opposite - with more in focus than not.

Zoom and prime lenses – Some lenses can be ‘zoomed’ between two focal lengths, such as 18-55mm. Others are fixed to one, like 50mm, which is a prime lens. The best prime lenses tend to be on the expensive side. Users are often professionals, so the quality of the lens and advanced manufacturing methods is where the budget goes.

Mirrorless cameras – Unlike DSLRs, the best entry-level cameras with a compact size have no internal mirror to reflect the image up and through to the viewfinder. Instead, the image goes straight to the sensor, which means faster operation and a smaller body. It can mean that your battery life is shortened, due to the optical viewfinder being replaced by the rear screen.

Micro Four-Thirds – A system created by Kodak and Olympus, micro four thirds essentially shrinks a full-size DSLR a little, whilst keeping the benefits. This means the sensor is smaller than the usual APS-C sensor, again to save space; but will retain as much professional image quality and pixel density as possible. The range of compatible lenses is excellent, as it's an open standard.

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Chris Duffill is a Senior Tech Writer and Reviewer for What's The Best. His background includes writing, editorial, marketing, design, video production and photography.

He specialises in home entertainment and audiovisual tech, including speakers, amplifiers, turntables, streaming media players, and TVs. He is also one of our resident experts in computing (PCs, tablets, smartphones, smartwatches), DSLR photography and all kinds of digital cameras. He also writes about retro gaming, game consoles and various electronic gadgets. If it plugs in, lights up or makes a noise, he’ll write about it.

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