I’ll preface this review by disclosing that I really like whisky - whether it’s blended, single malt, Scottish or international. I don’t drink it to get drunk, I drink it because I love the taste.
So, in theory, I should enjoy a non-alcoholic version like Lyre’s Highland Malt just as much, which promises all the flavour of a whisky but none of the headache. You may already be shouting ‘it’s not that simple!’ at your screen, but bear with me. Because there’s another thing too, which I shall explain.
It’s easy enough now to have ‘a beer’ with a group of people whether they drink alcohol or not, thanks to a huge and growing range of brilliant 0% lagers and ales, but less so for more celebratory drinks. I previously tried Lyre’s Classico Grande (a zero percent Prosecco-a-like) and now when celebrating with a group of people, some who drink and some who don’t, we just have a glass of that, and everyone feels included.
So, I was really interested in this Highland Malt – there isn’t much (to my knowledge) that claims to accurately replace an after-dinner whisky and it’s quite nice, particularly around the festive season, to share this experience with friends and family whether they drink or not.
How did you test it?
I decided to put this drink to the ultimate test and give it nowhere to hide, by drinking it neat in a glass. This is how I like whisky, so it felt like a fair comparison.
There are a bunch of things that you start judging before you’ve even poured yourself a dram – the size and shape of the bottle, the label design, and the colour of the liquid itself. Whisky is very rarely cheap and this needs to be reflected in the way it’s delivered in order to feel authentic.
Lyre’s has nailed the brief in all those departments with packaging and a product that looks indistinguishable from an alcoholic whisky. The only small point is the screw top instead of a cork, so it doesn’t make quite the same noise when you open it, but that’s not always a given these days anyway.
Does neat Lyre’s Highland Malt taste like whisky?
In the glass it’s on the darker end of the spectrum and has the inescapably rich smell of a whisky - sweet, with a hint of smoke, but unsurprisingly missing that firey hit of alcohol you’d expect. If anything though this means you can enjoy the more subtle aromas instead of having your nostrils singed with spirit.
To taste there’s an initial hit of acidity, which gives way to a sweet caramel and finally a lingering, peppery heat. It feels like these flavours have been chosen to simulate the sting of an alcoholic whisky, and the lengthy burn it leaves behind.
On that front it’s pretty successful but lacks the toasty grain flavour of an alcoholic whisky, and of course the heavier viscosity you’d expect. It has a subtle flavour and a more watered-down feel, not unlike diluting a more delicate alcoholic whisky, in fact.
What about in a cocktail?
Here is where the Highland Malt really shines, and Lyre’s also sent me a couple of bottles of Franklin and Sons Ginger Ale to mix into a classic Whisky Highball.
Here is where I think this non-alcoholic spirit really shines – adding smoky depth and a complimentary heat to an already spicy mixer.
To my mind the best way to make this is to use as little ginger ale as possible to avoid diluting the flavour of the Highland Malt too much. A small tumbler with a couple of ice cubes a decent measure of the spirit seemed to do the job.
As a pre-dinner drink that everyone can enjoy this feels a lot more grown-up than just a mixer in a posh glass, plus you could dress it up with some garnishes and a stirrer and I suspect nobody would miss the alcoholic content.
Verdict
I think Lyre’s Highland Malt is really clever in the way it attempts to recreate not just the flavour but the sensation of an alcoholic whisky. I don't think I'd swap the two long-term, but it's a great alternative when accommodating people who don't drink.
You have to manage expectations slightly – a drink made essentially from water, agave syrup and natural flavourings is going to have a hard time matching the exact profile of a single malt that goes through a lengthy and complex process, involving a great deal of time sitting around in a wooden barrel.
You do also have to get through it a bit quicker than a traditional single malt – once open the 700ml bottle should be consumed within 12 weeks, says the label, and you shouldn’t decant or store it outside the fridge in that time.
I think its greatest strength lies in its ability to be mixed into cocktails that everyone can enjoy, or even for food recipes that use whiskey. In this application, it actually tastes pretty bang on - a useful addition to your cupboard whether you drink alcohol or not.
Whichever way you look at it, the more choice when it comes to non-alcoholic beverages the better, and being able to make everyone feel included whether they drink or not can only be a good thing.
Adam Binnie is the Commercial Content Editor and reviewer for WhatsTheBest, specialising in bikes, fitness, cars, parenting and cooking.
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